Vinyl Post And Rail Fence

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Whether you just love the look of vinyl ranch fencing or need to fence your farm to protect animals, we have the style and quality options you need. While standard fences often require constant care and maintenance, our PVC fences allow you to enjoy them without any effort. Our vinyl horse fence is designed for use by cattle ranchers and is available in two, three, four and cross designs. We also offer two basic colors for this type of vinyl fence – white or almond. In addition, we also have a collection of premium black vinyl fences with patented resistance to high temperatures.

Vinyl Post And Rail Fence

Val: We’re here today with Richard Fish from . Richard has been in the business of selling and installing fences since 1993. Now he offers us his quick ways from an installer’s perspective to help the layman create a great project. So what do we have here today, Richard?

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Richard: This is one of the hottest products in the fence business today. It is a postal and railway system. It is actually a white vinyl post with three rails and a fence. We’ve got the inside support back in and that’s our original support and we’re going to show everyone how we put all the posts, all the railings and the gates for that part of the fence.

Richard: This is our first post. Our post was different. Now we’ve tied a knot right here and we’re going to go to the other pole, making sure we don’t get any grass and dirt caught in our line, and we’re going to mark all of our poles through the middle of that line.

And now at that end I’m also going to tie a knot in the center of the post and pull it really tight so the wind doesn’t blow the string, so the grass doesn’t get on top of the string, and then it’s perfectly centered on the post. After we’ve pulled the string and pulled it through the middle, we want to tap it a little bit, make sure there’s no grass on it, no debris touching it, and it’s free of all the dirt so you can get a clear and really straight line.

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We’ll just use a standard 100 meter tape measure and a screwdriver. Most of these street strips have room for something, a wedge, screw driver or something to hold them in place. We’re going to put it right here in the middle of the post so the middle of the rail will come in the middle of this post. Now we just drag it into another post. Now that we have the string and measuring tape nearby, we now know exactly where we need to place the fence post. We just reach down, take the tape measure, go to the rope, saw just below the rope and mark it at 8 foot intervals. Now 16 and 24. Just pull the string and it will come off automatically. Now you can reuse the string because you tied the knot instead of having to keep cutting and tying the string. Because if you keep tying the string, sooner or later it will break or it won’t be as straight as you want.

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Before you’re ready to dig in, contact your local tagging contractor. This is someone who works for utility companies, they come and make sure there are no power lines, water lines, gas lines, pipes, lines of any kind under your fence. This ensures that your digs are safe, hassle-free, and that no one gets hurt.

Val: Well, Richard, now that we’ve dug the holes and put up the posts, what do we do now?

Richard: Well, now we have to set the post with concrete. As you may recall, we placed a string in the center of the pole to establish the center of the holes. Now we will place the string on the outside of the pole to get a straight line. We will get a straight line. We’ll place them on 2-foot centers, embed them in the concrete, and we’re good to go.

Richard: Well, the best I remember in my scouting days is you go underground with a loose rope, go over the top and do something like a loop with this middle here. Then pull it back through that loop and pull it hard so that the little tail is sticking out there. You hold that loop tight and after you pull it tight, it pulls the post and won’t let go until you pull that little braid and it’s all gone. This is often used by wizards. You will find that many magicians use this same knot in their rope tricks.

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Richard: Good question. What we do is we hang the tape on the front edge of this post, the first post, and we go to the front edge of this post here. This equates to 8 feet center to center. The front of this, the front of this is 8 feet center to center.

Richard: Well, that’s an even better question. We’ll get into that later, but the main thing is to look at our levels, are we the same?

Richard: Val, switching sides. All right, Val. Keep it here. Monitor your levels. Check out this one and this one here. Now press the tip of the shoe against the bottom of the column so that when the concrete goes in, it doesn’t move our column all over the place. Do I understand?

Richard: I’ll just drop it into the concrete. Now we’re going to take this shovel, the gunner’s shovel, and we’re going to depress it to get the air bubbles out of the concrete.

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Richard: We’re going to rock back and forth a little bit on each side to get the air bubbles out.

Richard: The Ancient Fence Builder’s Secret. We’ll be talking about water a long way down the road, but now we just need to put some dry concrete in the hole, and then we’ll come back and talk about water.

Richard: Good question. Yes, it has practically become the industry standard locking mechanism for white vinyl fences. This is called a notch and is made with a notch. Each side of this rail has notches. When it enters that hole, it’s so tight that it’s squeezed so hard that it can’t get back out. The only way it can come back is if they are ripped out. And the only way they’re going to rip them out is if its breaking strength exceeds about 1,200 pounds. In other words, the horse runs over the fence.

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Richard: All right, Val. I’ll start by reviewing it through this medium post. I’ll put it up for that first hole. I can see that, but tell me where I should be on the second hole. So here we go. Stick with this post.

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Richard: Let me push it all the way to this post. o o o What are you going to do now?

Richard: Well, we’re going to pull this post up. Since we set it in dry concrete, we can now move the column. Now we still have a long way to go.

Richard: We’ll pick it up and run it there. perfect This will work. Now let’s put an end to this. perfect Took one.

Val: Richard, the back span is 94 inches and our rails are 16 feet. What are we doing?

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Richard: That’s fine. We’re just going to take one of our 16′ rails, cut it with a SKILSAW cordless saw, and re-cut it to use here.

Richard: As we did with the long rails, we are working with the short rails. We’re going to put it on the open end on our right, push it through, push it in, just push the back of the pole out. Insert it here from this page. perfect

Richard: Now give me one of those and we’ll do two more. Thank you very much. Now hold your post, paste it, paste your post. Like this. Insert it from this page and . . .

Richard: Push and push. Absolutely. Look again, with dry concrete we can adjust the rails, columns as needed. Now we can finish the cladding, make sure the vertices and all the columns are level, come back. It looks like it’s going to rain now, so we can pour a few liters of water or wait for a little rain

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